The Luang Prabang Motorcycle Loop
A very challenging — but absolutely gorgeous — ride through some of the best of northern Laos
If you go clockwise, this loop takes you from Luang Prabang up highway 13 (the country’s main north-south national highway, connecting most of Laos’ major cities) to the stunning karst scenery of Nong Khiaw, then east to Muang Khiam and Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park with its amazing bird safaris, then south to Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars, and finally west to the village of Phou Koun on Highway 13, where you can either turn north back to Luang Prabang or south to Vang Vieng and Vientiane.
If you go counterclockwise, then after your final stop in Nong Khiaw you go back to Pak Mong on highway 13, where you can either go south back to Luang Prabang, or turn north to Muang Xai / Oudomxay, Muang Khua, Phongsali, Luang Namtha, Huay Xai, etc. The choice is yours.
But to do this, you should be a highly experienced motorbiker with experience on terrible roads, a motorbiking licence from your home country and an international drivers’ licence — if you are missing either document, then your travel insurance is invalid if you have an accident.
Also note that many rental motorbikes available in Luang Prabang can only be driven within Luang Prabang province! So that won’t work for this.
Why do it at all? Well, getting between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw by bus is easy, but buses to the other locations are much less frequent and often oversold. The bus from Nong Khiaw to Muang Hiam is usually so full that no one in Nong Khiaw can get on it at all — you have to first take a separate bus in the opposite direction to Pak Mong, where the bus still has enough space to fight your way on if you are pushy about it.
Here’s what to expect on each leg (never attempt more than one of these legs in a single day):
Luang Prabang - Nong Khiaw (140 km): 4-5 hours on a very busy road with constant cars and trucks. It is paved, but with endless big potholes. And the trucks cool their overheated brakes with water, which can create slippery sludge on truck-filled roads such as this one. Watch carefully and stay to the side of the road. There are not a lot of scenic stops here — just get through it as quickly as you safely can.
Nong Khiaw - Muang Hiam / Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park (167 km): You should allow all day for this, because the road is in horrible condition and you will want to make frequent stops, both to rest and to enjoy the views. Expect an average speed of around 20-25 kph. On the bright side, you will have beautiful views, and not nearly as many cars and trucks as on Highway 13 .
Muang Hiam - Muang Kham - Phonsavan (207 km): Allow a full day for this. In terms of road quality, the northern half is particularly awful, the southern half is a little better. Note that there are a LOT of police checkpoints around Phonsavan where they may demand small bribes, usually less than $10 equivalent.
Phonsavan - Phou Koun (136 km): In terms of road quality, the western half is especially bad. Phou Koun is a tiny village, but because of its “crossroads” location, you can find food and lodging there. Or continue on south to Kasi (the road is very bad so the going is slow), or north back to LP.