This is another place that can take a long time to reach. From either Nong Khiaw or Luang Prabang, a bus to the town of Sam Neua will take about 14 hours. (Or you can fly from Vientiane into Nong Khang Airport, about 30 km / one hour’s drive away — taxis wait when airplanes are arriving). Another hour’s drive (most likely on a guided tour from Sam Neua) will bring you to this cave complex which was the headquarters of the Pathet Lao Communist guerrillas throughout the American war.

The story, the history of what they sacrificed and how they persevered through worse bombing than Germany or Japan suffered in World War II, is amazing.  And the caves are quite scenic in places. But is it worth travelling so far? If you’re only going to the Caves then I don’t think so, especially if you will see all the stunning caves on the Thakhek Motorcycle Loop as well as the Phatok caves very conveniently located in Nong Khiaw, which housed a regional Pathet Lao HQ. But, if you will combine this with some trekking in Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park (see below), then the long travel time becomes much more justified.

If you are travelling by bus between Nong Khiaw and Hanoi, the bus will go right past here, crossing the border at Na Meo/Nam Soy. Note that the bus between Hanoi and Luang Prabang does not go this way — it takes a more southerly route via Phonsavan. However there ARE direct buses between Luang Prabang and Sam Neua. So, just to be clear:

• a Nong Khiaw - Hanoi bus will get you here

• a Luang Prabang - Sam Neua bus will also get you here

• But a Luang Prabang - Hanoi bus will NOT get you here.

En route from either Luang Prabang or Nong Khiaw to Sam Neua, you will pass through Muang Khiam, the gateway town to Nam et-Phou Louey National Park. I personally have not been there, but I hear good things about it and it’s high on my list for my next visit. This is (along with the wonderful Gibbon Experience) a very rare place where you can still hear and see wild animals in Laos — mainly birds (ground animals are pretty much gone as far as I know). The guided Night Safari (on the river after dark) comes highly recommended. Expect basic accomodation and good food, with great guides. Book here.

I have been warned that when travelling from Nong Khiaw to either Muang Khiam or Sam Neua, the bus is often so crowded by the time it arrives in Nong Khiaw, that you physically cannot get on it. For that reason, it’s better to first take a bus from Nong Khiaw one hour west to Pakmong (i.e. in exactly the wrong direction; all buses from Nong Khiaw to either LP or Oudomxay stop in Pakmong, so you shouldn’t have to wait long). Then from Pakmong you have a better chance of squeezing on to the eastbound bus to Muang Khiam and Sam Neua. This obviously wastes a few hours, but it is apparently the right thing to do, unless you can afford to hire a private driver.

Excellent travelogue from someone who visited this area in January 2025

Written by Susanna Haas Lyons:

We organized a private ride from Nong Khiaw to Muang Hiam for 3.600.000 kip — expensive, but we were a group. And, as you'll hear if you read up about it, the public bus is quite hard to get on from Nong Khiaw. Plus, it arrives to Muang Hiam at midnight or later. The road is in incredibly poor condition; expect serious bumps and dust. Even in our van with closed windows and AC we wore masks.

The National Park was responsive by email and WhatsApp (contact them here). We were picked up in Muang Hiam at 9am. They drove us to Ban Son Khoua where we met our guide, got a short tour of the village and began the trip up river. Our boat drivers, nature guides and English speaking guide were all skilled, kind and very knowledgable about the area. Many are former hunters.

My group spent one night at the lovely bungalows and a second night in tents further up river (2 nights, 3 days). The food was tasty, plentiful and included locally foraged plants.

We spotted big and small birds, a Serow (antelope goat animal!), some deer, and the shining eyes of civets in trees. It was a fabulous experience to be in the healthy Laos forest. They took us on a guided plant walk. The stars were incredible. We sat around the fire with the guides and talked with one another.

Apparently the hiking treks (which also leave from Muang Hiam, but travel westward instead of eastward where we went) go through primary forests.

Leaving Ban Son Khoua we went eastward towards Sam Neua (also a very bumpy and dusty road, although shorter than the way to the National Park.) The public bus was full when it came by (and apparently was also full for the group who travelled the day after us), so we paid for spots in the back of a truck.

We then went on Vieng Xai. It's a lovely place to be for 2 or 3 nights. The waterfall is a must see, but you'll need to hitchhike or have your own transportation. We'll fly out of Sam Neua airport to save ourselves a bit of road travel.