This is another place that takes a long time to reach. From either Nong Khiaw or Luang Prabang, a bus to the town of Sam Neua will take about 14 hours. Another hour (most likely on a guided tour from Sam Neua) will bring you to this cave complex which was the headquarters of the Pathet Lao Communist guerrillas throughout the American war.

The story, the history of what they sacrificed and how they persevered through worse bombing than Germany or Japan suffered in World War II, is amazing.  And the caves are quite scenic in places. But is it worth travelling so far? If you’re only going to the Caves then I don’t think so, especially if you will see all the stunning caves on the Thakhek Motorcycle Loop as well as the Phatok caves very conveniently located in Nong Khiaw, which housed a regional Pathet Lao HQ. But, if you will combine this with some trekking in Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park, then the long travel time becomes much more justified.

You could also visit here while en route between Luang Prabang and Hanoi, crossing the border at Na Meo/Nam Soy. Note that the direct bus between Hanoi and LP does not go this way — it takes a more southerly route via Phonsavan. But by taking multiple buses and changing where necessary, you can do this. Buy your bus tickets for each leg of your trip locally, the day before you want to travel. Your guesthouse will be able to tell you what buses you need and when they depart. If Luang Prabang, Hanoi and either Sam Neua or Nam Et-Phou Louey are all in your plans, then this is the right choice.

I myself have not been to Nam et-Phou Louey National Park (it’s high on my list for my next visit) but I hear good things about it. Apparently this is (along with the Gibbon Experience) a very rare place where you can still hear and see wild animals in Laos — mainly birds (ground animals are pretty much gone as far as I know). The guided Night Safari (on the river after dark) comes highly recommended. Expect basic accomodation and good food, with great guides.