Muang Ngoi
If you ever get the chance to go trekking in Indochina, take it! But beware – after you get home, adjusting back to the modern world may take a while
“Muang Ngoi” they said, all nodding their heads
“If you go one place, go there.”
I’d just landed in Laos and sought out a crowd
Of backpackers, their wisdom to share
“Cause guidebooks and maps you always must have
But then you’ve got to get face to face
With the selected few who think and travel like you
And will point you to the magical places
(chorus)
Go friend, head on out
Wherever your wishes may take you
Enjoy the surprises in all shapes and sizes
And see how the journey re-makes you
So I found the right bus and hopped right on up
And I waited with Western impatience
The bus slowly filled, more seats were squeezed in
And my knees and my chin got acquainted.
90 miles took 4 bone-jarring hours
Until at Nong Khiaw the road ended
So with guitar and my pack I slid down the dirt track
And by river my trip was extended.
My jaw hung low squatting down in the boat
As the jungle its beauty presented
Past rapids we flew, giving thanks to our crew
For the smash-ups they somehow prevented.
As we rounded the bend at Muang Ngoi we all said
“My God what a beautiful site”
A plank was thrust out and we wobbled about
Trying to tiptoe to shore and stay dry.
About 100 huts and a few dirt tracks
With electric 3 hours a day
With mountains surrounding, the vista’s astounding
No English, but smiles all the way
Two dollars a night a fine bungalow buys
A gourmet feast costs four
Sip a coconut shake and watch the sun make
Its way down as the peaks tower over
(chorus)
At first sunrise, I hired a guide
Up into the mountains to step
With no trail markings and land mines abounding
Alone is the wrong way to trek
10 long steep hours, rice paddies, wildflowers,
Sore muscles but breathtaking sights
At last we arrived at a Khmu tribal Village for the night
First we went to the chicken coop fence
“Which one shall we buy?” my guide asked
After choosing our meal I rested my heels
And in the rose-tinted sunset I basked
Chicken I found’s a rare treat in this town
And in a hut dozens gathered to share it
The chief said a prayer to the local Gods there
And with rice wine whisky we paired it
Then I brought the guitar and I played a few bars
And the locals they listened politely
But when my guide had a go playing the songs that they know
Then the whole crowd really got lively
With one candle for light in a hut packed tight
Their singing and drumming resounded
And when myself I excused, the bushes to use
I found the rest of the village gathered round us
(chorus)
With no man-made light the stars were so bright
And sunrise was even more scenic
Looking over the clouds in the valleys way down
My hangover? I didn’t feel it
The morning mist it looked like an abyss
As we slowly descended into it
But before mid-day the fog burned away
And the sun like an oven burned through us
Through wild banana groves and fast mountain streams
I hiked chatting with my tour guide
Wildlife tracks and medicinal plants
He explained everything at the trailside
At last we arrived at Nam Tha riverside
And waited for a boat to retrieve us
That one hour ride back to Muang Ngoi, I
Think is one of the world’s most gorgeous.
(chorus)
